Hi! I’m looking for some measures for a catch tank like this one http://www.motostrano.com/ufosucaca.html. The measures i need is the width, depth and length! So, if any of you can measure yours, i’ll be glad! For those who wonder why, i’m going to make my own at school.

Markus

darn it sorry for the oil questions! i think im making myself paranoid:headshake i got 2 quarts of yamalube 10w 40 oil and a oil filter from the dealership. the oil filters come with the o rings already on them right? i swear i saw it on the new filter when i put it in:headscrat now im freaking myself out a little bit and searching through this forum trying to find out and in some threads some people mention changing their oil filters and o rings and they also replace the crush washer on the drain bolt… i reused my washer on the drain bolt it seems fine. i jst took the old filter out and stuck the new one in. didnt notice and o rings i had to switch or buy. i thought the filter came with them already on it? am i right? or am i losing my mind? i have issues with being paranoid with motors

my 08 wr250x has just over 2k miles and i just changed the oil and filter and noticed in the old oil there is a few very small silver shavings… is this something to worry about?? it seems to run fine. i just happened to notice it when i was pouring my old oil in a jug and the very last bit of oil in my pan had the small silver shavings in it. :headshake

Noob question here regarding my WR250X. Recently changed the oil and filter and have been riding to work. Past two days I have noticed very small puddles of oil where I am parking. Seems to be coming from the base of the shift lever, where there is a significant greasy build up. Just not sure if this is started before or after the change, and whether or not I should worry. Barely has over 2k in miles. FWIW, it has also been raining when I ride, so I guess some of the water could sort of help drip it off when I park…
Thanks.

I have a KTM 560 smr and it leaks oil out of the output shaft. I replaced the seal, but it did not fix the problem. Has anyone else ever had this problem, or know any possible fixes?

I’m installing my pcIII and pu kit on my 08′ 510sm and thought I’d go ahead and change the oil and check the valves while it’s down. The previous owner changed it at 300 miles using formula moto 10w-60 full syn, I’ve got around 500 miles now and had rather use an oil I can purchase locally. I know 10w-60 is the correct weight but are there any other weights that will be suffice? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I use rotella in my other bikes for what it’s worth.

anybody’s clutch had problems like this before..? i opened up my clutch reservoir/master cylinder (for the hydraulic) n there’s no oil in it. the oil has never been changed n i’ve had d bike for a year n a half. plus-minus from that 5 months of zero usage. when was i supposed to do maintenance for it..? i always do early servicing but i never do it myself, the bike shop that i bought if from does it. (cant go elsewhere coz of d 2yr warranty). after checking, i dont see any leaks or tampering that could have drained out my clutch hydraulic oil.

How often does everyone change their oil on their wrx? Just curious.

And does synthetic oil make it run better for some reason? Thanks.

Hi All

I will be running off some oil filter gaskets in the not too distant future.

Is any one interested in having some?

I will get the pricing sorted in the next week or so.

Shaw

I seem to have a bit of oil leaking from the bottom of my case, there is what looks like a weep hole (like on a waterpump when it leaks to tell you the seals are gone) where the oil is coming from. I searched my manual and they do not reference any weep holes. Im thinking that i might need some seals in the bottom end? Any one know if this is a weep hole for the bottom end?

I am about to do my first oil change on the DRZ and I was curious what crush washers I need for the oil drain plug(s)?

Do both drain plugs need a crush washers?

On this schematic, it looks like I need #7 and #14 http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-mot…10376sch527304

So checked up on some threads and it looks like the Hiflo oil filters are the best bang for your buck. it doesn’t show how much they are, and the sites i checked (ex bikebandit) dont have it in stock. Ive been paying 7.99 for the K&N oil filter for my 07 SM510R, but want to buy bulk and foe cheaper. anyone know anyone or a store that sells em cheaper? Thanks!

Just bought a 2006 CRF 450 supermoto,street legal.
Not real comfortable with the fact that the bike only hold 3/4 of a court of oil.
I would like to add an auxiliary oil tank and a oil cooler as well.
Anybody have any suggestions?Would love to see some pics and suggestions from experience.
Thanks

hey i have a ktm 625 supermoto it calls for mineral oil in the hydralic clutch instead of the usual brake fluid is mineral oil mineral oil or do i need like a magura motorcycle special mineral oil? and what is the harm in the wrong stuff thanks :bannana:

Took my first sumo ride on my new 530. Went for a little ride and ended up at a stunt spot with some buddies. To my surprise, it only took me a couple passes to get my wheelies behind balance point and slow them down (probably not the best way to break in a new bike).

But it got me thinking how well the bike lubricates on a wheelie. Stunt bikes often require a mod to the oil pickup so the pump can suck oil when in a wheelie.

Does anyone know how well these bikes handle this? Would any modification be needed? I’d hate to oil starve this bike, it’s much too much fun.

Where do you guys get quality synthetic oil online ? Need to re-stock…

My knee-jerk reaction is to just ring up Munn and order from him. Just don’t want to overpay.

And now to confuse things… I see Ester and non-Ester synthetic oils… Not sure what I want, they are almost the same price. What is the difference?

Thanks,
Barry

I seem to be losing some oil. I didn’t check for a while and it wasnt even on the stick. I did a full oil/filter change by the book and a week and a half later its dropped from full on the stick to halfway. Is this normal? I also have noticed a small bead of oil on the underside of the right radiator and a little splatter on the frame next to it, but can’t for the life of me figure out where it is coming from. Seems like it could only be from the dipstick, but there is no evidence it is coming from there. There is also no dripping under my usual parking places… Any ideas? Thanks, I appreciate the help as always.

Do you guys use a different weight of oil in winter temperatures?

Or do you use the same everything year ’round?

What and why?

Thanks.

After reading about how the older Husqvarna thumpers have a crap oil system and then reading how the newer Huskies have a trochoidal oil pump to supply the head I thought about how you could supplement the oiling system in an older Husky. Looking at pictures of newer Huskies it seems that the trochoidal pump has been simply tacked on one side of the motor, with the reed valve still supplying the bottom end with oil. So it’s kind of a dual oiling system. Given that the head supply line for all the TE/TC/SM motors I’ve seen is external it’d seem to be easy to add an external electric pump to supplement the reed valve oiling on older TE/TC/SM motors.

As far as I can tell (i’ve neither looked inside a TE/TC/SM motor personally yet or gone through the manual in much detail) it would be easy to add an electric oil pump to the oil feed line on the right hand side of the engine. There are small oil scavenge pumps available (VDO make one would sit inline easily and measures 87mm long 37mm dia) that would fit in that area so it’d just be a matter of mounting the pump, making two lines (one from the block to the pump, then one from the pump to the head) and there you go.

Problems i can see with this are:
Pumping oil to the head faster than it can drain, however you could throttle the pump or put a pressure reg inline to handle this.
Current draw being too high for the stator on a TE/TC/SM etc bike. I’ve seen small solid state fuel pumps (like Facet carby pumps) being rated to as little as 1 amp current draw at 12V so it’s feasable that a small electric oil pump could achieve the same.

Also I read somewhere that the VDO pump doesn’t like aerated oil too much, so where the picks up from will be pretty important. I’ve not looking inside a motor in person myself yet (will soon when I change the oil in my own TE610) but the pickup through the screens does look like it’s at one of the lowest points in the engine and will in theory always be below the level of the liquid oil with the aerated foamy oil sitting on top (well in my mind that seems to make sense).

Another idea was to run a carby style electric fuel pump in place of the oil pump due to them being quite alot cheaper and more common and can handle contact with just about all petrolium products on their internals. However problems i can see with this are that oil is more viscous and it could overload the pump and that the oil is going to be much hotter than fuel. The solid state Facet pump I mentioned before is rated up to 55 degrees C, but if my car is anything to go by the oil temp will exceed that and the pump motor will create extra heat too. I’d expect a normal operating temp for the oil to be 60-80 degrees. I’ve heard of a Holley Red being used as an oil scavenge pump due to it’s all metal internals and general ruggedness and it does draw only 2amps but it’s quite bulky and heavy for a motorbike.

Just my thoughts, anyone got anything to add, glaring flaws etc?

VDO inline oil pump 87mm by 37mm 12V but need to find how many amps it draws.

And a random image of my own TE610 motard that I’d be applying this to if it seems practical.

Alright guys, input is always appreciated.. Is oil supposed to leak a little bit from that tube? The guy i bought the bike from said that these bikes leak a little and that it wasn’t a big deal:headshake..What do ya’ll think?

it was noticed yesterday on a ride that my exhaust is smelling a bit of oil, noticed on tip of pipe that it is a little tinged brown.
I had the 290 kit installed on the wr250x a cple weeks ago and all fine. i changed the oil last week and put a little bit too much in, IMO, i drained some out.
.
would a bit of excess oil cause some to burn?
I dont have a fouling plug from oil, engine runs great.
I hit the rev limiter with it once, but do not think that there is any valve issues, bikes runs fine. no coolant problems either.
.
I figure to drain the oil again and try to get right amount in..

Was in the process of changing the oil on my 2007 KTM 690 SM and when I attempted to put the drain bolt back in, it seems to keep turning and never getting tight.

I tried to loosen it but the bolt just keeps turning and turning (with a moderate level of resistance). So the bolt is stuck there and I think I may have cross threaded the bolt.

Am I F*%(ed? Advice? Solutions?

Thanks.

hi guys im new around here

got a 55 plate DRZ400sm

changed the rear tyre today……..all went along fine. chain aligined and all.

rode fine….just stopped at garage to fill up came out from paying and she had dumped half her oil over forecourt.

bought some oil and limped her home.

from what i can see oil is coming from front sprocket area. could i have dislodged something when refitting the chain?

thanks alot

Dan

Picked up a new ‘08 SM610 from the dealer about 3 and a half weeks ago. Read the entire owner’s manual that comes with it and was under the impression that the "1st Engine Oil Replacement" warning light that looks like a low oil light comes on at 610miles (1000km), pg 14 fig 4 of the manual.

I was riding today and mine came on at around 390 miles or so. I wasn’t doing anything exciting, as a matter of fact I was in stop and go traffic when I noticed it.

I searched and didn’t see any references to the same issue in another thread. Is this just a fluke? Is it a bad sensor? Did they change the first service interval since printing the book? I looked through the sight window on the side and while the oil looks a little dark it is exactly where it was when I got the bike, about 3/4 of the way above the low mark on the sight window towards the full mark.

My local dealer is shut today so I am not able to take it over there. Any ideas? Any information would be appreciated. Thanks a lot.

The digital display of a Husqvarna 610 has a oil icon that comes on at around 500 to 600 for your first oil change. How do you reset this once you’ve had your first change done.

How much oil are you putting in there, i am going by the manual and it say 1.15 liter with filter changed, but with that i am filling up my crank breath hose with oil in every session, then today it looks like i blew a gasket right below the oil resverve i will post up pictures later and such. i think i put to much in and the crank hose was not breathing and then found a weak spot and blew the gasket. just some ideas will help.